Blocked Cats (Feline Urethral Obstruction)

What is a blocked cat?

The term ‘Blocked cat’ describes a physical obstruction of the cat’s urethra resulting in the inability for successfully urination. This painful condition falls under a wider group of feline abnormalities known as Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease, and usually come in the form of mucoid plugs or urinary crystals. Interestingly, this condition is more common in male cats due to their long and narrow urethra! Furthermore, studies have also shown that urethral blockage occur more often in cats that live indoors and in multi-cat households, suggesting that stress might be a key contributor.


If left untreated, blocked cats are a medical emergency. When urine is unable to be excreted, significant tension is placed on the bladder as it continues to strain and stretch in its attempt to contain an increasing amount of urine. When this happens, the bladder wall may rupture internally resulting in leakage of urine in the abdominal cavity. This can most certainly be fatal. Other complications that can happen include severe electrolyte imbalances and life-threatening cardiovascular problems.



Signs to look out for

-      Straining to urinate at litter box

-      Dripping of urine

-      Lethargy

-      Loss of appetite 

-      Loud meowing indicating pain

 

If any of the signs above are noted and urethral obstruction is suspected, do bring your pet to the vet immediately.


Diagnosis

After initial stabilisation, your veterinarian will likely perform an X-ray imaging, physical palpation and possibly an ultrasonographic study to assess the size and state of the urinary bladder. Furthermore, urine and blood tests may also be helpful to determine if any other medications are required. 


Treatment and Prevention

The physical obstruction in the urethra should be cleared by inserting a urinary catheter (a thin blunt-ended tube). This allows urine to resume egress by flowing out of the now unobstructed urethra, thus greatly relieving pressure from the bladder. This catheter can then be left in the cat for a couple of days to ensure patency and to allow the urethra to recover in the meantime. Pain-relief medications will also be administered to prevent reduce discomfort.


Environmental changes are also highly recommended and studies have shown that decreasing stress levels at home can reduce the rate of recurrence drastically.


By Brandon Tomo July 7, 2026
Quick answer: Daily brushing with a dog-safe toothpaste (never human toothpaste) is the single best thing you can do for your dog's teeth at home. Introduce it gradually over 1–2 weeks, focus on the outer surfaces of the teeth, and pair it with regular professional dental checks - brushing slows plaque but can't remove hardened tartar below the gumline. Brushing is the gold standard of home dental care, and it's genuinely worth the effort: it removes plaque before it hardens into tartar, the main driver of gum disease. The good news is that almost any dog can learn to accept it if you go slowly. Here's exactly how. What you'll need A dog toothbrush or a soft finger brush (a soft child's toothbrush works for larger dogs). Dog-safe enzymatic toothpaste , usually poultry- or malt-flavoured. Never use human toothpaste. It often contains fluoride and sometimes xylitol , which is toxic to dogs. Dog toothpaste is made to be swallowed safely. Step-by-step: brushing your dog's teeth Let your dog taste the toothpaste. Put a little on your finger and let them lick it off, so they learn it's a treat - not a threat. Touch the lips and gums. Over a few days, gently lift the lip and rub a finger along the outside of the teeth and gums. Reward calm behaviour. Introduce the brush. Add toothpaste to the brush and let your dog lick it, then start touching it to a few teeth. Brush the outer surfaces. Hold the brush at about a 45° angle to the gumline and use small circles. The *outer* surfaces (cheek side) collect the most tartar and are what matter most - don't worry about the inner surfaces early on. Build up gradually. Start with a few seconds and a couple of teeth; over 1–2 weeks work towards the whole mouth, aiming for about 1–2 minutes. Finish with praise or a reward. Keep every session short, calm and positive so your dog looks forward to it. How often should you brush? Daily is ideal. Plaque starts to harden into tartar within a couple of days, so brushing every day (or at least every other day) keeps ahead of it. A few times a week is still far better than nothing. When brushing isn't enough Brushing is brilliant prevention, but it has a limit: once plaque has hardened into tartar - especially below the gumline - no amount of brushing will remove it. At that stage your dog needs a professional canine teeth cleaning : a dental scale and polish under general anaesthesia. If you already see brown tartar, red gums or notice any signs of dental pain , book a dental check rather than relying on brushing alone. Not keen on brushing, or have a dog that won't tolerate it? Vet-recommended dental chews (look for the VOHC seal) are a useful back-up between brushes. How we help at AVH Animal Ark Our team is happy to show you the technique in person and check whether your dog already needs a professional clean. When a scale and polish is needed, we perform it with our iM3 GS Elite dental unit, under safe general anaesthesia with IV fluids and full monitoring, at our Springleaf and Tampines clinics (open 7 days). A scale and polish starts from $550 (blood tests from $250). Frequently asked questions Can I use human toothpaste on my dog? No. Human toothpaste can contain fluoride and xylitol, both harmful to dogs. Always use a toothpaste made for dogs. My dog hates having his teeth brushed - what can I do? Go slower. Spend several days just letting him lick the paste and getting used to your finger on his gums before introducing the brush. Keep sessions short and rewarding. VOHC-accepted chews and a dental diet can help in the meantime. How soon will brushing make a difference? Brushing prevents *new* plaque from hardening, so the benefit is ongoing. It won't remove tartar that's already there - that needs a professional scale and polish. Is brushing enough on its own? It's the best home step, but most dogs still need periodic professional cleanings because brushing can't reach below the gumline. Medically reviewed by Dr Colin Chin , Veterinarian (Murdoch University, 2011) - special interest in anaesthesia and small-animal medicine; anchor veterinarian at our Tampines clinic. Read Dr Colin's profile Last reviewed: June 2026. This article is general information and not a substitute for a consultation with your vet. References / Further reading 2019 AAHA Dental Care Guidelines for Dogs and Cats - American Animal Hospital Association Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) - accepted home-care products (VOHC seal) WSAVA Global Dental Guidelines - World Small Animal Veterinary Association 
By Brandon Tomo July 7, 2026
Toy Poodles, Maltese & other small breeds get dental disease earlier. A vet explains why small breed dog dental care needs earlier, more frequent scaling.